Réunion's small but spirited capital is Saint-Denis, a
picturesque town flanked by three mountains and situated at the
mouth of the Saint-Denis River. Saint-Denis is a mixture of
sophisticated French-style restaurants, bars and nightclubs (with
Parisian prices), and more traditional sights and sounds. Sadly, it
is often sidestepped on trips to the island, used merely as a
starting point due to its close proximity to the airport. However,
it is well worth taking some time to explore its charms before
moving on.
The chic, upmarket seafront area with its promenade is known as
La Barachois, and remnants of the small port that once existed can
be found, including an old warehouse of the East India Company that
now houses the French Administration Offices. The Grande Marche
(market) is a treasure trove of Malagasy arts and crafts, fragrant
spices and textiles, while smaller markets offer mouth-watering
fresh tropical fruits and vegetables. A distinctly French flavour
mixes with African, Chinese, and Indian, creating a mélange that is
evident even in the cuisine. Try a delicious
cari(a meat or fish stew cooked in a sauce and eaten with
rice) and
rougail(a spicy tomato salsa), sample some excellent Chinese
food from a tiny take-away or indulge in juicy mangoes or litchis
off the stalk.
Saint-Denis boasts a fascinating mix of religious architecture,
from mosques, Tamil and Buddhist temples, to its Cathedral,
illustrating the diversity of the island. There are several quaint
old buildings, an interesting Natural History Museum, a Modern Art
museum named after the poet Léon Dierx and the facades of old East
India Company buildings. It is also well worth getting out of town
and climbing one of the three surrounding peaks for a gorgeous
view. Perhaps the most breathtaking is from Route de la Montagne
(the Mountain Road), a steep track that winds up to the top of a
lava cliff that drops dramatically into the sea. Once the delights
of Saint-Denis have been explored, the rest of the island paradise
of Réunion awaits.
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